Varanasi [India 2020]
Hindus come here to die. Some Hindus bring the bodies of the dead to be cremated at the bank of the Ganges. Those who cannot, bring their late relatives' ashes here. Also called Kashi and Banaras, this is the holiest of all sites for Hindus.
The Ganges, the most sacred river of India, is also the most polluted river in India. Some corpses are even left in the river to rot without cremation (though I didn't see any). But people bathe right next to the rotting corpses and take the water of the river back home for drinking and for pujas.
Varanasi was a bit disappointing for me. I expected it to be mystical, like a magical city out of a legend. Needless to say, it was more "real" and down to earth. Saw a cow sleeping right in the middle of a busy street with motorbikes and cars honking and finding their way around her. The winding alleyways of the town have a refreshing smell of saffron, in addition to the familiar smell of open sewers.
Kashi Vishwanath Temple, probably the most important temple of Hinduism is situated here. The entire central tower is plated with gold, security is quite tight and the temple is surrounded by a maze of alleyways of market stalls selling sweets, clothes, incense, and everything related to Hinduism. Surprisingly the queue moved fast and I could actually get "darshan" (for free! twice) of the vishweswara (a form of shiva linga as the lord of the cosmos).
The western bank of Ganges is packed with large "ghats": antique-looking fortresses where one can get the sights of real Varanasi. Walking along the ghats in the early morning mist gives part of the mystical experience. Weed-smoking rishis (Hindu monks) walking around in elaborate saffron costumes; groups of children in saffron practicing yoga as dawn breaks; rows and rows of bodies burning in the open (Don't mind being hit by ashes as I stood watching); grand pujas and performances held for Ganges river in the evening.
I guess one would enjoy Varanasi a lot more either if they are a devout believer or if they know next to nothing about Hinduism (so that all this would feel out of this world).
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